If you are using a Play and Charge cable, these block out the 3.3V signal if you do not have a battery installed, and only allow the 5V signal to pass through without one installed. I don't recommend repairing these anyone since the 1708 has been out for a few years and fixed most of the part quality issues with the 1537/1697, but it can be done if you want to try and salvage this one. A donor may be the only economical way to get it as well. You’ll need to find a 1967 board if you choose to do the repair as there are a few differences between the boards I’ve personally noticed you can’t ignore and you HAVE to buy this used as it is a PCB and Microsoft does not sell parts. If it does not, you may have an issue with the bottom motherboard. Get a quality cable from Anker and try that to see if it helps. If you are using a generic retail cable, most of these are poorly made and tend to fail. Since the drivers didn’t fix the problem, I would question the USB cable you are using.
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